The Oriental Hotel

They've placed me in a corner room overlooking brightly colored, long tail river taxis churning along the Chao Praya River. Fresh orchids embellish and aerate the room. There are slippers perfectly placed by my bed. Ornately cut papaya, watermelon, and pineapple sit on a tiny table next to the window. Outside, a milky orange sunset becomes a symphony of light and shadow--on courtyard palm trees, on the leaden river waters--creating silhouettes of golden Buddhist temples along the opposite river bank.

A few steps down the hall, attendants are eager to serve. A flip of a switch brings a polite knock at the door. My presence creates a stir of activity and contagious, beaming smiles. In keeping with tradition, they place their hands together as if to pray and bow. It's their customary way of greeting, called "wai", and I will experience much of this kingly treatment in the days to come.

If Bangkok is crazy, frustrating, congested (all true) then the Oriental Hotel can well be considered a self-contained oasis of comfort light years from the throbbing reality of modern Bangkok. Never mind (or mai pen rai, as the Thais are fond saying) the heat, the traffic, the chaos; I am deep in the heart of the "Oriental experience" courtesy of the Oriental Hotel.

Dropping Anchor At The Oriental:

There are few hotels that deserve an entire article devoted to their praises, but the Oriental is in its own league--a piece of living history, and a luxurious retreat, still thriving in the midst of a city moving full steam ahead into the modern age. Since it opened in 1876, this award-winning hotel on the banks of the Chao Praya River has remained the undisputed grand dame of Bangkok.

The Oriental knows how to treat its guests and lord knows they have had plenty of practice. When Anna Keonowens, the English governess of "The King and I," arrived here in 1862 to teach the children of the King of Siam, the Oriental was already established as a rest house for foreign sailors. Since then the Oriental has thrived, repeatedly declared the best hotel in the world by scores of travel publications.

Much of the Oriental’s fame comes from diplomats, royalty, celebrities, writers and artists who have stayed here: Joseph Conrad drank in its bar, now Lord Jim's Bar. Nijinksy danced here. Somerset Maugham checked in to recuperate from malaria. Peter Ustinov loves it. Boris Becker practices on its tennis courts. Barbara Cartland has a suite named in her honor. Prince Charles and Diana paid a visit, as did George Bush and Bill Clinton. Elizabeth Taylor, Roger Moore, and recently Leonardo DiCaprio, have stayed at the Oriental. Michael Jackson retreated to his suite and hid from the press.

As a Bangkok landmark in every sense of the word, the Oriental has always been an institution in Thailand’s capital. For many, even if they cannot afford to spend the night, the Oriental is a place to enjoy a buffet or cocktail on the riverside terrace or soak up a bit of atmosphere evoking the glory of old Siam. But for those who check in, the Oriental provides service, comfort, and amenities remembered long after leaving Bangkok.

The Oriental Experience:

Service, Amenities, and "Phantom" Staff

I was puzzled at first by the tiny toothpick that dropped to the carpet when I left my room. Later, I would discover its purpose: the barely perceptible brown toothpick, designed to match the teak doorway, is carefully placed in each guest’s door; when guests leave, it drops the ground (a "clue" for staff that it is appropriate to enter a room to fill the water pitcher, replace the flowers, or turn down the bed.

This simple mechanism symbolizes the Oriental and provides insight into its flawless reputation as in the details. And of course there is the staff a legion of professionals with an ultimate commitment to service. Service so seamlessly orchestrated that is virtually invisible.

Further elaboration on the Oriental’s impeccable service came my first evening when I responded to an engraved invitation for cocktails in the Authors' Lounge. The main attraction was three Miss Japans, two former and one current, who were to make an appearance over drinks and hors devours. As cameras flashed I spoke with a young German manager at the hotel who explained that much of the Oriental’s service quality comes as a result of very high employee morale. "I’ve been with the company (the Mandarin Hotel Group) for almost ten years. I’ve worked at different locations and have always fallen into a family relationship with my peers."

The Oriental experience is about creature comfort, much of which centers on food. Within the hotel there are eight restaurants catering to almost every taste. From the Normandy which serves classic, formal French cuisine, to Ciao and its reputed Italian fare, to The China House, a beautiful building adjacent to the main hotel serving classic Cantonese. There is an extraordinarily good Thai restaurant, Sala Rim Nam, is a few minutes' shuttle ride across the Chao Praya river opposite the hotel. Where they hold nightly feasts of Thai cuisine accompanied by classic Thai dance performances.

One of my favorite dining experiences was at the Riverside Terrace, an outdoor dining experience on a terrace overlooking the Chao Praya River, that holds nightly steak and seafood barbecues with over one hundred buffet dishes.

When recharging your batteries is in order, the Oriental Spa is ready to oblige. Here you can experience Herbal Wrap Treatments, Papaya Body Polishes, and all manner of hedonistic indulgence to lift your body into the heights of nirvana. On my visit I chose the Jet Lag Recovery Treatment, proceeding to have one of the best massages of my life that incorporated Swedish and Thai massage techniques into a muscle-kneading session that left me floating on air. Note: reserve well in advance· word has gotten out!

A Launching Pad To Bustling Bangkok

Once you have had a taste of the Oriental it may be tempting to stay put, but resist the temptation and get out into the city. There is more visible historical evidence of past eras in Thailand than in any other Southeast Asian country. And Bangkok, Thailand’s sprawling, dynamic, and often frustrating capital offers more variety, sights, and wonders than any other destination in South East Asia. As for urban and cultural delights Bangkok, although it can alarm with its chaos and scale, tends to so charm visitors with its energy and cultural treasures that the steamy, soupy diesel mixture, which passes for air, is more than forgiven.

Thailand is viewed by most as a land of contrasts a Îyin and yangâ interplay of extremes. Much of the good - and most of the bad - is centered in Bangkok, Thailand’s largest city with a population between 6 and 10 million. In Thailand, patience is a virtue: consider that even though it can take a long time to get anywhere (during peak rush times that it can take an hour to move five miles). Despite this you will rarely hear honking horns and cursing drivers. The Thais are patient people. Like them you should adopt a similar attitude humor, chai yen (cool heart), and a little mai pen rai, are essential to enjoy Bangkok.

Fortunately, because the Oriental sits enviably on the Chao Praya River, it is the perfect stress-free launching point to the majority of Bangkok’s attractions.

Buddhism permeates everyday life and much of Bangkok’s cultural treasures are inextricably linked to it. Any exploration of Bangkok should begin with a tour of several of its temples and monuments. About 400 Buddhist temples, or wats, are within the city limits, most of them easily accessible by water taxi from the Oriental.

Temples appear around unexpected corners - a characteristic due to lack of zoning. A golden temple can be next to a junkyard, which in turn will be bordered by an expensive private home, which will be alongside a restaurant. Some temples are located along Bangkok's vast system of canals, known as klongs, branching off the main Chao Praya River. Noisy, speedy, long-tail boat rides along the canals are inexpensive and fascinating, not only for the views of the temples but glimpses into the open-air homes and everyday life on the water.

While journeying endless shopping opportunities present themselves on almost every canal and street. Plan your journey around attractions of interest while leaving enough time for spontaneity along the way. Thais live for food, and throughout the city are food vendors in every conceivable location serving simple, delicious food at street side stalls. Many of the fried, baked or cut-up fresh fruits have names and tastes with no American counterpart; the same is true of certain vegetables, seafood and spices. Eating on the streets in Bangkok is a safe, culinary delight that should not be missed.

The Oriental Queen and Ghosts of Old Siam

In 1763 an enormous Burmese army mounted a devastating assault on Thailand’s then capital Ayuthaya, 85 kilometers north of Bangkok. A terrible war ensued and Thai citizens valiantly resisted superior Burmese forces despite famines, epidemics, and horrible fires that consumed the city. Finally, in 1767, Ayuthaya fell to Burmese. In an unprecedented orgy of vandalism, murder, and destruction most of the population killed and the entire city was burned to the ground. The royal family and over 100,000 Siamese captives were marched back to Burma and sold as slaves. With complete disregard for their common religion, the Burmese forces destroyed the artistic and literary heritage of the city, pulling down many of the Buddhist temples and melted down most of the golden Buddha images, a savage act that still profoundly shocks the Thais.

Today Ayuthayaâs scattered ruins, colossal Buddhas, and soaring wats have been restored by the Fine Arts Department and provide eloquent testimony to the once great metropolis. Ayuthaya has been successfully developed into a successful tourist attraction and is easily visited as a day trip from the Oriental-- a must see for any visitor to Thailand. The trip begins with a morning bus ride to the city, a guided tour of the ruins, and concludes with return trip aboard the luxurious Oriental Queen along the Chao Praya River complete with an excellent buffet lunch.

If You Go:

As the Thais will tell you, Thailand’s weather falls into three categories: Hot, hotter and hottest. The most pleasant weather is from November through February, when it rains little and temperatures range from the mid-80s to the mid-90s. From March through May, the temperature is frequently above 100. June through October is the rainy season. But regardless of when you visit Bangkok, assuming you opt for a visit to the Oriental Hotel, everything is always just the same: Just perfect.

The Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok 10500, Thailand (662 236 0400)