Rest, Relaxation, And Indulgence In The Napa Valley

When you spot the giant metal sculpture of a winemaker kneeling over an old hand grape crusher, you know you are close. Then you go bit further and spot dazzling vistas, rolling vineyards and mountains. At last an abundance of award winning wineries appear along the road, one after another, to let you know you have arrived: you are in Napa Valley, the uncontested heart of American wine culture.

The Napa Valley has been made famous over the last three decades for its award winning wines. Yet Napa, as you will discover, is about much more than eating and drinking: luxurious accommodations, the spas of Calistoga, an abundance of outdoor pursuits including golf, horseback riding, bicycling, and hot air ballooning all of this and more is in the Napa Valley.

From its primal scenery, vast blue skies, rugged mountain peaks, gnarled oak trees and babbling streams, Napa Valley is a mini oasis of sensual possibility enjoyable by car, bike, or on foot. And because Napa has so much to offer it is a weekender’s paradise an ideal retreat from the work-a-day world and a place to recharge your tired soul. So it was from San Francisco that I headed north one March weekend for three days of rest, relaxation, and hedonism in the Napa Valley· and I was not disappointed.

Day One: Friday

Running approximately 30 miles, from Calistoga in the north to San Pablo Bay in the south, Napa Valley is rarely more than three miles wide. Enclosing the valley are two rugged mountain ranges, legacies of ancient geologic activity still percolating below the earth’s surface. Volcanic activity is responsible for the region’s geysers and the fertile, well-drained soil ideal for grape growing. Another geologic legacy in the valley is Calistoga’s supply of spas that draw from mineral springs below them.

We passed the wineries along Hwy 128 and pulled into Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs just before sundown. We requested "The Works" (mud bath, mineral bath, facial mask, steam room, and massage) and proceeded to have a month’s worth of stress forcibly expelled from our bodies. The man behind the mud and the magic is Dr. John Wilkinson, who has been pampering guests for almost 50 years since his arrival in the valley in 1952.

After an hour of sheer relaxation, it was back down Hwy 128 to Rancho Caymus to settle in for the night. Drawing from the historical roots of the area, Rancho Caymus provides total comfort and rustic ambiance. From its hand-hewn beams and railings, hand-forged doors, and hand-painted murals, to its elaborately carved chairs, tables, and dressers from Guadalajara, Rancho Caymus evokes the spirit of old California.

We promptly settled in while still enjoying the lingering bliss of Calistoga spa experience. Dinner reservations were set at La Toque, a fairly recent Napa addition on the premises of Rancho Caymus. It was an easy walk of about twenty-five feet, through the lush garden courtyard of the inn, to our table. From here we settled in for a two-hour-plus gastronomic experience at the hands of Chef Ken Frank of modern, locally influenced French cuisine.

With its high-pitched ceiling and beams, golden walls, and bronze chandeliers, La Toque resembles the dining room of a rustic French country inn. We ordered from the eclectic prix fixe dinner menu that included Seared Foie Gras with Pickled Onions and Golden Currants, Roasted Beet and Potato Salad with Roquefort, and Artichoke Heart, and Banana Tatin with Pineapple Gelato. As time slowed to a crawl and the fireplace burned a comforting glow, we enjoyed some of the best food and service anybody could expect in the Valley.

Day Two: Saturday

Fully rested, it was time to tour and taste. After a continental breakfast at Rancho Caymus we grabbed our map and took to the highway for a day of wine. Our first stop was Whitehall Lane, a winery that appears to be straight out of a modern art exhibit with its geometric motif and architecture. The winery produces Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Especially memorable was their 1997 Napa Valley Chardonnay round and supple, bursting with apple, pear, and hints of tropical fruit and vanilla a fine example of a premium Napa Valley Chardonnay.

Just next-door is Flora Springs, a winery that has its hands in just about everything. Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon; it’s all here. The 1995 Zinfandel was a definite winner, bursting with bright berry flavors and baked cherry pie aromas, and I couldn’t help but pick up a bottle for the road.

Further up the road in St. Helena, Beringer Vineyards sits majestically on a top a hill in a Victorian mansion turned tasting room and gift shop. Beringer has a long reputation as a top Napa producer. Visit the upper floor tasting area dedicated to Private Reserve and limited release Cabernets and Chardonnays. The 1995 Howell Mountain Merlot, big and earthy with luscious vanilla overtones, was a winner. Not to be missed is the Nightingale Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Dessert wine, wonderfully fragrant and exploding with flavor.

We rushed across the street to Charles Krug, the oldest winery in Napa Valley founded in 1861 by early Prussian pioneers. They produce Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Krug Vintage Selection Cabernet and the Family Reserve wines are definitely worth a try.

As the afternoon drew to a close, we could only anticipate the meal to come at Catahoula Restaurant and Saloon in Calistoga. Chef Jan Birnbaum has a quite a culinary reputation and a sense of humor (but what do you expect from a man who names a restaurant after Louisiana’s state dog?) We took our seats at the kitchen side counter a few feet from the wood-burning oven. Birnbaum whips up unconventionally titled dishes like Beans That Make You Crazy and Ice Cold Oysters with Brutally Spicy Tomato Salsa. Portions are huge plan to leave here very full and satisfied. The industrial sheek dining room is fun and the service matches the excellent food.

Day Three: Sunday

The last day of our trip began vertiginously at Sterling Vineyards. As we rode the aerial tramway to the top of the 300-foot-high knoll that houses the monastic, white stucco winery, we could only marvel at the landscape and the rising mist of the vineyards up and down the valley. We took the self-guided tour of the winery and settled into the tasting room, one of the best in the valley. Especially impressive was the 1997 Chardonnay, fruity, warm and toasty, and the 1996 Merlot, with aromas and flavors of blackberries and cedar. Don’t miss the Sterling Collection Wines available only at the winery.

Only minutes away, the big black swan standing guard at the door told us we were somewhere special. Chateau Montelena lives up to its lofty reputation with superb wines and eclectic grounds. The magnificent vine-covered stone chateau looms like a castle over expansive Jade Lake. The lake is brimming with pagodas, swans, small arched bridges and island picnic grounds. Famous for the 1976 Paris tasting when Montelena's 1973 Chardonnay bested France's top white Burgundies, Montelena's wines still rank among the best in the world. The Chardonnay is lush and complex and the Cabernet Sauvignon Montelena Estate is intense and age-worthy. The less-expensive Calistoga Cuvée Cabernet is fruity and balanced. Make sure you pet Kippy the cat, an enormous fur-ball who occasionally drinks milk from a wine glass in the tasting room.

It was almost time to go home, but there was one place left to visit. The Smith Trout Farm, accessed by a seven miles of dirt road winding up a mountain, provides city folks the thrill of fishing without the downsides: a well stocked pond guarantees a catch, no worms to mess with, and you only pay for what you catch. The staff even cleans your fish and packs them on ice. We dipped our poles in the lake and within fifteen minutes had two freshly caught trout in our trunk, ready to be savored along with one of our tasting room purchases who says you can’t take a little bit of Napa home with you?

Rancho Caymus/

1140 Rutherford Road

P.O. Box 78

Rutherford, CA 94573

800/845-1777

Suites range from $145 to $295

La Toque Restaurant

Nightly Prix Fixe Menu $65

Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort

1507 Lincoln Avenue

Calistoga, CA 94515

707/942-4102

For prices on all spa treatments

Go to www.drwilkinson.com

Catahoula

1457 Lincoln Avenue

Calistoga, CA 94515

707/942-BARK

Lunch Entrees: $9 to $14

Dinner Entrees: $11 to 22