Toque of San Francisco

The introduction of The American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts, at Trefethen Vineyards, featured a luncheon by Sean Knight, of Pinot Blanc restaurant, where the chef let his creative juices flow. The first course featured Lemon Thyme Braised Lobster with Roasted Beets and Uplandcress paired with Trefethenâs 1996 Chardonnay. The main course of Crispy Wild Stripe Bass with Braised Bay Leaf Scented Cabbage and Butter Nage was accompanied by the spectacular 1995 Mondavi Pinot Noir Reserve. But the piece de resistance was the Mango Tartin with Passion Fruit Sorbet coupled with an amazing 1993 Beringer Founders Reserve Barrel Fermented Nightingale. Dessert wine can be difficult to pair with sweet desserts, but this was a sublime match. Knights Mango Tartin with Passion Fruit Sorbet was the perfect foil for the wine, presenting complimentary and oblique flavors that highlighted the intense fruit of both.

Also in Napa Valley, Fred Halpert of Brava Terrace in St. Helena has announced he’s opening two new restaurants: Brazio, a Tuscan-style grill serving wood-fired specialties in Danville’s Blackhawk The Shops shopping center; and LiveFire in Yountville, an American-style smokehouse specializing in wood-fired meats and fish. Washington Square Bar & Grill in San Francisco has just appointed Tim Au as Executive Chef. Au came to Jan San Francisco in 1993, taking a job at One Market where he trained under Bradley Ogden before taking a Sous Chef position at Mooses in North Beach. Before joining Washington Square Au was Executive Chef of the Sherman House in Pacific Heights. Auâs current menu includes Oysters Rockefeller, Sautéed Portobello Mushroom with Sauce Menuiere, and Grilled Double Cut Atkins Lamb Chops with Roasted Winter Vegetables and Rosemary Infused Demi.

Recently opened Absinthe declares, "The era of absinthe is about to be reborn." Located in San Francisco’s Civic Center, and evoking turn of the century Belle Epoch France, Absinthe is a brasserie with stylish period decor and a menu that is sure to deliver, Choices include Stuffed Squash Blossoms with Basil and Taleggio, Boudin Noir with Frisee and Apples, and Whole Dungeness Crab with White Truffle Butter. For those intrigued with the long-banned, anise-flavored liquor, which is Absinthe’s namesake, a bottle is in locked display in the front wall.

MacArthur Park, serving classic American comfort food in San Francisco, celebrates its 25th anniversary this month.

Another restaurant devoting itself to food mom used to make, is San Francisco newcomer Aurora’s Place, a neighborhood cafe on Potrero Hill. The 50-seat restaurant, previously the Asimakopoulas Cafe, serves Chef David Wees home-style specialties like chicken potpie, meatloaf, and bread pudding. You may remember Wees from his stints at Bauhause and Garibaldis. We had the opportunity to size up Mark Franz’s talents at Farallon at the Frescobaldi-Mondavi luncheon in March. The first course was his signature Delta Crayfish and Foie Gras Suspended in Duck Gelee (made into a perfect pyramid) with Black Truffle Coulis. It’s a dish that wouldn’t work nearly so well if the gelee were not flavored. As it is, it’s so attractive you almost hate to eat it. The entree featured a Grilled Pancetta Wrapped Rabbit Leg with Wild Morels, Fava Beans and Spring Garlic on a cushion of mashed potatoes that was definitely comforting even if mom never made it, and paired marvelously with the 1995 Lucente.

Its official Chef owner Alain Rondelli will close his San Francisco namesake restaurant effective April 1. Rondelli, celebrated as one of the country’s top chefs, will leave the restaurant business ("for now", he says) to concentrate on developing a new line of specialty food products. The Paris-born chef has been in the business for over twenty years and opened his Clement Street bistro to immediate acclaim in 1993. Though he is proud of his restaurant’s success, Rondelli said "I’m now very excited about moving on to Trefethen, Sean Knight & Alice Waters

Alain Rondelli Cooking Sauces debuted at the Fancy Food Show.

The aforementioned NASFT Winter Fancy Food Show rolled into San Francisco’s Moscone Center from February worldwide range of specialty food products was on display and included comparative tastings and educational seminars. New this year was the City of Berkeley’s presence as the first city in the world to sponsor a booth at the show. Representing approximately 35 businesses, Berkeley’s Office of Economic Development intended to capitalize on Berkeley’s food reputation by marketing itself as an ideal location for food producers.

The Bay Area has been awash in wine events recently. First out of the gate was the Seventh Annual Zinfandel Festival, held January 22ö24. The "ZAP" Festival (a.k.a. Zinfandel Advocates & Producers) featured a kick-off night on the 22nd with food and wine pairing at Rosenblum Cellars in Alameda. About thirty Zinfandel producers and an equal number of restaurants and food-related businesses were on hand. The evening turned out to be a mouthful of intense flavors. A "Blue Jeans To Black tie" auction and dinner was held on the 23rd at Fort Mason in San Francisco, but the grand finale took place at Fort Mason on the 24th with "The World’s Largest Zinfandel Tasting" attracting 151 Zinfandel producers and over 4,000 fans. This mega-Zinfandel tasting was a testament to the popularity of California’s native varietal and the wines just keep getting better each year.

Next up was the First Annual Rhone Rangers tasting at Herbst Pavilion in San Francisco. Hot on the heels of ZAP’s long standing success, a posse of California vintners from up and down the state who dabble in the varietals of southern France (think Viognier, Mouvedre, Syrah) displayed their creations to a packed house. No matter how hard you looked, not one Cabernet, Merlot, or Chardonnay could be spotted. Cowboy clichés abounded, and new exciting wines took the stage. Viognier labels are proliferating. Exciting blends of red varietals from the likes of Beaulieu, R.H. Philips, River Run, and Hogue continued to break the rules while hinting at better things to come.

On March 20 the indefatigable Narsai David, former restaurateur and current radio personality on KCBS radio’s Food News, hosted the sixth annual The Narsai Toast, a gala and auction benefit for Berkeley Repertory Theatre. In celebration of the theater’s 30th anniversary, Narsai pulled out all the stops to bring together chefs Joel Guillon of ANA Hotel in San Francisco, Charlie Trotter of Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, Mark Franz of Farallon in San Francisco; Traci Des Jardins of Jardinière in San Francisco, and Wendy Brucker of Rivoli in Berkeley.

Wines were donated by Beaulieu, Gloria Ferrer, Glen Ellen, Iron Horse, Sterling, Raymond, Frog’s Leap, and Quady. Guillon was in charge of the hors d’oeuvres, which included Smoked Duck Breast with Mango Chutney, Dungeness crab on Cucumber, Five Spice Braised Blue Fin Tuna, and Prawns Provencale deglazed with FoiePernod. Charlie Trotter provided the (Geleefirst course of a Duet of Terrine, Parsnip-Endive and Smoked Salmon- Eggplant. Mark Franz followed with a Seared Noisette of Leopard Grouper with Sakonnet Point Oyster, and Celery Root Gnocchi; TraciDes Jardins served an Herbed Loin of Lamb with White Beans; and Wendy Brucker finished the meal with a warm Rhubarb and Strawberry Financier with Rose Geranium Crème Anglaise, and a Warm Bittersweet Chocolate Cake with Butter Pecan Chocolate Truffle.

A ray of sunshine hit San Francisco’s re- emerging Civic Center with the opening of Sunny Jim’s, at the site of the former Stars Cafe. Inspired by the spirit and time of San Francisco’s beloved bon-vivant mayor from 1911-1930, James "Sunny Jim" Rolph, Jr., the restaurant is an update of the comfortable, clubby chop houses favored by the movers and shakers of that era. Chef Joe Jack whose previous experience includes stints at Monsoon, Tutto Bene and Tutto Mare heads the kitchen. The Hatch Group of Southern California has redesigned the interior of the 150-seat restaurant. Manager Dennis Swayne was most recently General Manager of Spuntino.